NJ's Kimchi Smoke Talks Balancing Safety and Business
Robert Austin Cho, left, won the People's Choice Award at Brisket King NYC in 2019.
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BBQ joint Kimchi Smoke in Westwood, New Jersey has made a name of itself in New York barbecue circles over the years by wowing crowds at events like Brisket King NYC and the New York City Wine and Food Festival. Owner and pitmaster Robert Austin Cho has effectively created his own blend of Texas barbecue and Korean cuisine that always entices the taste buds, and as such, people have sought his food out in New Jersey too.
Cho, like many other barbecue business owners, has struggled to find a way to make things work during the COVID-19 crisis. When the order to shut down indoor dining was issued by NJ, Cho turned Kimchi Smoke into a one-man takeout operation in order to survive. Things have steadily gotten better since the start of the pandemic, and he's been able to bring back two employees while also sustaining good takeout business.
I caught up with Cho this week to discuss what business has been like since the pandemic started, his love of barbecue specials, why he hasn't embraced outdoor dining, his hopes and fears regarding the rest of 2020, and more.
Kimchi Smoke in Westwood, NJ has a ton of great food but currently is takeout only due to COVID-19.
Sean Ludwig: How has business been recently?
Robert Austin Cho: Things have been going well. It took me a good month and a half to get into this groove, where we are doing takeout only and doing it safely. I'm happy with the way things are going.
SL: Are you doing the same level of takeout than you were pre-COVID?
RAC: The takeout is way greater than before. Takeout maybe represented 30% of my business before, but now it's 100%. ... I think it's sustainable as it is now but the big question is if people start to go back into work or go into Manhattan, that will determine how sustainable this model is. Lunch is better, dinner is better, and everyone is staying home, so there are more customers around.
SL: Were you able to get a Paycheck Protection Program loan to help you pay your employees?
RAC: I was able to get one and it was actually more simple than I thought. It definitely helped and it was one of the reasons I was able to bring back [one full-time employee and one part-time employee].
SL: New Jersey just suspended indoor dining indefinitely. What was your reaction?
RAC: I actually was relieved. I even held back on outdoor dining because I've been waiting to see how that would go for other restaurants and to see if the state might change their mind. There's a lot of people that have been investing in outdoor seating and umbrellas, but I've been cautious to see how it plays out. It took me more than a month to figure out how to do contactless takeout properly and safely, so I haven't wanted to scratch my head to figure out how to do outdoor dining safely yet.
SL: With so many businesses doing it, do you think you're missing out on a lot of business?
RAC: Everything seems inconsistent right now. I'm glad I'm not doing outdoor dining at the moment. My customers are asking me about it and they want it, but I'm not there yet. The delay of indoor dining might have been a positive step for outdoor because it means more demand, so [it could happen soon.]
Kimchi Smoke has begun implementing way more specials during the COVID-19 period, including pork belly bao buns.
SL: I saw you posted recently on social media about your personal experience of going to a restaurant to get takeout and being very uncomfortable with what you saw. What happened?
RAC: I went to a local place with an open kitchen where no one had masks on and people were fairly close to each other. I ordered the food and then was waiting for 10 to 15 minutes. The longer I waited and observed what was happening, the more uncomfortable I got. I started getting very upset about what I saw.
SL: As a food business owner who takes health considerations very seriously, did you do anything about it?
Part of me wanted to call the health department, but I didn't do that and instead got in touch with the management to let them know. I know many restaurants are trying to do the right thing with masks and social distancing, but then going to some place where they aren't adhering makes you question if they are taking anything seriously. I decided to ask for a refund, they gave it, and I left.
SL: I get frustrated with how many people aren't wearing masks in places where you can't socially distance. Are you feeling any of those same frustrations?
RAC: I wear it because I'm in the food business and I have to be extra careful. One thing that bothers me is that ... it's inequitable that servers are wearing it and then the [customers] aren't. I don't know how we can reconcile that once we come inside. It doesn't make sense to me. If they are inside and not wearing a mask while eating, what difference does it make that they walked into a restaurant wearing it? I can't come to grips with it ... and it's why I would wait on indoor dining.
One of the things Kimchi Smoke is best known for is killer brisket.
SL: Changing gears, one cool thing I've noticed about your takeout business now is that you seem to love specials. There are all kinds of cool new things being offered each day. Where did that come from?
RAC: Normally I don't do as many, but I've been trying to give people new things to try. It's also easy to offer it because I can put it on the online menu instead of on a paper menu. ... Another thing is that before I had a head chef and line cooks, so it was harder to squeeze in specials because it was a tight workspace. Since it's just me, I can do whatever I want as long as I have the time to do it.
SL: What have been some of the most popular specials so far?
RAC: One of the items we offered a few years ago was the "pork belly bao buns" and we brought those back recently. I did a whole hog for my third time ever at the restaurant and that one did well. And I did a "Cho Rizo Chonut," which has smoked and deep-fried Argentinian chorizo with remoulade, sriracha, and scallions inside a submarine glazed donut.
SL: You made a name for yourself at a lot of NYC BBQ events, which are not happening at all. Do you miss them?
RAC: I do! I miss being out in the open, meeting people, and getting that energy. But even if events were happening now, I don't think I could do them due to the staffing I have and [you still have to be concerned about safety.]
SL: How are you feeling about the rest of 2020?
RAC: When the pandemic started, I thought I was going to close the restaurant. Then I thought about it for a bit and got over my fear, and I said I'd stay open until they said I couldn't stay open any longer. Now I still kind of have that mentality. Currently, I'm open 5.5 to 6 days a week, and I'm open more because I don't know how things will be like this. The government could tighten things up again and have people go back indoors. Maybe later I'll take a break or vacation, but things are up in the air for a while.
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Thank you to Robert for the interview and the willingness to speak frankly about what he's been seeing at his restaurant and around New Jersey. Please stay safe out there everyone.
Sean Ludwig
Founder, NYC BBQ
EAT ALL ABOUT IT
New York City will open up grilling sites at city parks starting this Fourth of July weekend.
Here are the top BBQ and related food news stories you need to know about this week:
New York City has announced it will open up barbecue and grilling sites at parks around the city starting this weekend. This is great news for people who want to hang outside with friends and family, but please make sure you socially distance and wear masks if you’re having a gathering.
In light of rising COVID-19 cases nationwide, New York City has decided to delay indoor dining coming back indefinitely. Similarly, New Jersey has delayed indoor dining as well, citing some restaurants and bars that have not taken this seriously enough.
The great team at Pig Beach NYC in Brooklyn has just announced they are officially reopening with outdoor and street dining on Friday, July 10th. They will also be offering new takeout and delivery options as well. Pig Beach also announced it has partnered with Lloyd’s Barbeque Co. (a Hormel Foods Corp. brand) to “launch new pulled pork and pulled chicken dishes” made with Pig Beach Mustard BBQ Sauce, which will be available at grocery stores nationwide.
New York restaurants, including newly reopened Blue Smoke, are now offering “picnic boxes” that are perfect for socially distanced picnics in one of NYC's great parks.
If you’re stuck inside and still want to make some BBQ, Thrillist has a great roundup of indoor grilling products to help you out.
Nearby Philadelphia has an awesome-looking new BBQ joint called Zig Zag BBQ opening this weekend. Pitmaster and chef Matt Lang, previously of Fette Sau and Hill Country Barbecue Market, is running the show at Zig Zag and he will offer Texas-style brisket, turkey breast, pork shoulder, sausage, wings, ribs, and a vegan barbecue sandwich using Philly Tempeh.
In a passionate piece, Eater NY restaurant critic Ryan Sutton wrote about why he isn’t participating in restaurant dining (even outdoors) as COVID-19 continues. Sutton, who had coronavirus in March and lost 10 pounds during his sickness, writes that the “leisure of dining out doesn’t justify the health risks to workers.”
Finally, in a piece of good news, Queens Together, a restaurant advocacy group launched this year, is hosting a digital “international food crawl” of Elmhurst and Jackson Heights curated by Queens-based food writer and tour guide Joe DiStefano. The crawl takes place July 11th and 12th and proceeds will help Queens Together in its mission to support local restaurants and combat food insecurity. Guide tickets are here.
IRL BBQ
Given the coronavirus crisis, we will be leaving this section blank until things get back to normal. Many events continue to be up in the air, but I’ll be doing my best to keep the NYC BBQ website up to date with events in the area. Check out the full up-to-date NYC BBQ calendar here.
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